29/02/04

So nice to be writing in this section, no more worries about SVA, just waiting for a reg number from the DVLA. I have sent off the paperwork, first registration fee, 6 months tax, V55/5, Identity check, proof of identification, MAC certificate and insurance cover note. I should hopefully soon receive my reg number and tax disk.

Meanwhile I have fitted side screens, no problem here , just ordered from AutoBrass who made the screen, fitted in 5 mins. All the Pilgrim SVA kit has been removed and sent back. I have set the SPAX coil over's to 10 'clicks' each as a starting position and the springs wound up to give the best ground clearance.

I also made some covers for the tops of the door trim and fitted the boot carpet. The only other job left is to fit the front inner wings.

Looking at the inner wings I was doubtful that they would fit in without cutting them in half. To my surprise, and with the front high on axle stands, the inner wings do fit in one piece. There are a few large 'gaps' to cover with fiberglass, (that stuff again !), but they do actually fit quite well.

 

The next job is to fit a hood, but I will take a break for a while and just enjoy the Cobra.

07/03/04

The DVLA came up trumps and my Reg number and Tax arrived Fri Morning, C739 JYC hits the road !.

Having clocked up a couple of hundred miles now I can report very few teething problems. The fan belt kept coming loose, but a bit of brut force whilst the belt was warm, seemed to have solved the problem. The only other problem was small but annoying, I keep hearing what I though was a noisy tappet under load. I was about to replace the rocker arms and shaft when I noticed I had put one of the exhaust manifold gaskets on the wrong way round !, plonker, this allowed a small amount of blow past, just enough to sound like a tappet, I wondered why you only heard it under load.

I have been adjusting the damping on the Spax shocks, the best setting for me seems to be 5 clicks. I originally set the shocks to 10 clicks, nearly shook my teeth loose!.

I am quite happy with the performance, and what a lovely sound, burbling through the town, then that lovely sound when you hit the rev'... now I know why you must have a V8.

I am now going to change the oil, (just used some cheap Halfords stuff initially), a local stockist holds Valvoline 20/50 racing oil. I have been told this is the oil to use for constant oil pressure and durability, bit expensive at £16 for 5 litres, but no one said building and running a Cobra was going to be cheap.

14/03/04

Changed the oil, bit worried in case I got any 'drain back' and had to re-prime the pump. I drained the old oil first, then filled with new Valvoline 20/50, then changed the filter ensuring the filter was full of oil. Fired her up again and after about 10 sec's the oil pressure returned, so no priming needed. The Valvoline certainly does give higher oil pressure when hot and remains constant.

Having tried to make some stones guards myself and given up, I ordered some from Pilgrim, they arrived next day and took about 5 min's to fit. I have used three small rivets to hold them on rather than stick with adhesive as some people have done.It will be easier to remove them for painting.

Fitted another pair of speakers under the dash today, the rear speakers work fine except that as soon as you move off the sound gets carried away behind you !.

25/03/04

I was always in two minds about the front grill on the Sumo, other Cobra’s don’t seem to have a grill and , in my opinion the nose looks better.

The original Cobra had a single bar across the nose, so I decided to copy this but also still provide protection for the radiator.

I removed the grill and then set about cutting out a grill from 1cm square galvanised mesh, (B&Q). Then I fitted 1” x 2” wooden battens around the edge of the rad. That done I sprayed the wood matt black. Then I fitted the mess grill onto the battens with self tappers and washers, folding the edges of the mesh over the battens. The mesh was then also sprayed matt black.

Next I used a length of stainless tube, (or you could you chrome towel rail from B&Q), and the end fittings for bathroom towel rail. The end fittings were fitted to a bracket fixed to the inside lip of the nose.

The whole job only took about an hour, and the result is a much better looking nose area.

16/04/04

Well my Hood arrived from Pilgrim, so let's get stuck in and get the hood ready to fit.

First of all you have to make up the single tube frame that forms the middle bow support. The frame is in two pieces , you have to fit a short piece of stepped ally bar, one step of the ally bar is a push fit into one part of the frame, the other step is a nice slide fit into the other half of the frame. The same goes for the bottom supports of the frame, two short lengths of ally bar are a push fit into the frame then located into two female tubes you fit into the body.

First off I drilled the holes into the body to accept the locating sleeves for the frame. I had previously glassed in a piece of wood under the body to provide extra support. The ally sleeves were then simply 'persuaded' into place. Next I fitted the ally bars into the frame ends, and hey presto it fitted.

Next job is to fit all the 'lift a dot' fasteners into the hood, (all 14!), if you look carefully there are small marks on the hood material showing you where to fit the fasteners. I first made the hole then four small cuts to push the legs through and folded them over with pliers. It took a while and my fingers were sore by the end. The windows use Tenix fitting which require a larger hole and I found a pair of circlip pliers ideal for doing up the backplate. Next I placed the hood into position and marked the holes for the two fittings by the door, drilled the body and fitted the stud. Now I fitted the screen frame into place and pulled the hood tight over the frame and held in place with tape. Next I went round to the back and started from the centre , working my way round to the sides. All the time re-tentioning the hood via the tape on the screen.

Now I marked the inside of the hood to give me a 'glue' line the rolled the hood back and glued both the leading edge of the frame and the back of the hood material, then tensioned the hood again and stuck the two together, as soon as they stuck I removed the hood and allowed the glue to fully set. Once dry the material is then folded around inside the screen frame an glued again, once dry I also glued in the supplied foam to help with the seal.

I had already fitted the hooks for the over centre catches, (4ba), so just a simple case of fitting the over centre catches to the screen frame. Re-fitted the the hood and pulled up the over centre catches, and the hood is fitted.

Last job is to fit the zip in windows, no fuss a simple job.

I was quite surprised the first drive I took with the hood on, it is much more enclosed than I imagined and you have a certain 'snug' feel inside especially with the heater on. The buffeting is not as bad as expected well up to 70 mph at anyway. Getting in and out is a simple case of unzipping the window and folding it outwards.